From Tokyo to Houston
“The story behind Kathryn’s Custom Wedding dress”
Photo by Ashia Mosley
Kathryn and I have known each other for years through our work at the ballet company, and even before she got engaged, she made it clear that I would be designing her wedding dress. So, when she and her fiancé Jared got engaged in January of 2024, I was both honored and excited to finally begin the process of creating something truly special for her.
One of the first things we discussed was how to incorporate elements that would pay homage to her heritage. Kathryn is half Japanese, half American, and we were both drawn to the idea of including an exaggerated version of a traditional Japanese obi bow as a statement feature on the back of the dress. This was the perfect starting point for the design.
Since Kathryn was planning an intimate courthouse wedding in Houston with a relaxed dinner afterward, the dress needed to reflect that setting. We settled on a strapless, tea-length gown that would strike the perfect balance between elegance and simplicity—understated yet unforgettable.
Design sketch by Lennart Radtke
Design Challenges and Inspirations
From the outset, Kathryn was clear about wanting the design to hide her unique body shape. As someone with scoliosis, she was concerned about the way the dress would fit and wanted to make sure it highlighted her in all the right ways without drawing attention to her asymmetry. This presented a unique challenge for me when it came to pattern making, as it required a custom approach to ensure everything looked balanced on her body.
The inspiration for the fabric came from a personal connection to Kathryn’s heritage. Two years earlier, while on tour in Tokyo with the ballet company, I had come across the most stunning bolts of vintage Japanese kimono silk in a shop that specialized in antique and vintage textiles. When I showed it to her, she was overjoyed—it was exactly what she had envisioned.
The kimono silk posed another challenge, however, as it was only 37 cm wide. I had to carefully hide the seams where the panels of fabric joined, ensuring that the draping was flawless. Each step required precision and attention to detail, but I was determined to let the beauty of the kimono silk do the talking, allowing the dress to be simple yet exquisite.
Fitting process at the Atelier
Fittings and Trust
From the very first fitting, Kathryn made the process incredibly enjoyable. She placed so much trust in me, especially when it came to working with her scoliosis, which could have been a source of insecurity for her. However, she embraced every moment and trusted me to create a design that would flatter her body in all the right ways. Each fitting reassured both of us that we were on the right path.
There was one particularly memorable moment during the fittings. When Kathryn first tried on the dress in the final fabric, she took one look at herself in the mirror, beamed, and exclaimed, “I love it! I look like a mummy!” Given her love of all things spooky and the fact that her birthday falls on Halloween, it was such a humorous and fitting comment. The horizontal draping we had designed suddenly had a playful, unexpected twist in Kathryn's eyes. It’s moments like these that remind me how much joy and laughter can be part of the design process.
Photo by Ashia Mosley
Crafting the Obi Bow
The centerpiece of Kathryn’s dress was the oversized obi bow at the back. Inspired by traditional Japanese obis, we wanted this exaggerated version to be the focal point of the design. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the bow also served a practical purpose: it was another way to subtly conceal Kathryn’s scoliosis by covering her sloping shoulder, contributing to a balanced and harmonious silhouette.
To achieve the desired dramatic effect while maintaining elegance and comfort, I employed a combination of techniques. I added a strong layer of hard net crinoline and a flat steel bone to the bow’s construction. This provided the necessary strength to keep the bow standing upright while allowing it to look light and effortlessly beautiful.
Photo by Ashia Mosley
Final Moments and Reflection
The final fitting, as with all weddings, was filled with emotions. Seeing Kathryn’s excitement and happiness, especially after months of work, was one of the most rewarding experiences. When she stood in front of the mirror, surrounded by our friends and colleagues, it became clear that all the time and effort was worth it. She looked radiant.
Although I wasn’t able to be in Houston for the courthouse ceremony, I was there in spirit, knowing that Kathryn would be wearing a dress that reflected her style, her heritage, and her story. Hearing about how the day went, and how much she loved wearing the dress, was incredibly fulfilling for me.
Photo by Ashia Mosley
Creating Kathryn’s wedding dress was one of those projects that reminded me why I love what I do. It wasn’t just about the technical challenges—though there were plenty—it was about the connection I was able to forge with Kathryn throughout the process.
What I take away from this experience is that designing a wedding dress is about so much more than fabric and patterns. It’s about creating something that tells a story, honors a person’s heritage, and reflects their innermost self.